yeah maybe expose at 200 since film sometimes loses sensitivity once it's expired.
my suggestion would be to keep a logbook of your exposure info. maybe bracket to see how changes in exposure affect the negative. other than that, just shoot!
― dayo, Saturday, 24 September 2011 18:38 (twelve years ago) link
http://www.amazon.com/Photography-10th-Barbara-London/dp/0205711499
This was the standard 'textbook' in my school's photo program - buy an old edition cheap, something like the sixth or seventh edition should be all film (though this covers way, way more than film/darkroom work)
― Kiarostami bag (milo z), Saturday, 24 September 2011 20:27 (twelve years ago) link
http://www.amazon.com/Photography-7th-Barbara-London/dp/0130282715/ref=sr_1_1?s=books&ie=UTF8&qid=1316896141&sr=1-1
― Kiarostami bag (milo z), Saturday, 24 September 2011 20:29 (twelve years ago) link
dunno if this is useful to you at all, but I referred to it quite a bit when I was developing my own film:http://www.amazon.com/Film-Developing-Cookbook-Darkroom-Vol/dp/0240802772/ref=sr_1_5?ie=UTF8&qid=1316896204&sr=8-5
― Kiarostami bag (milo z), Saturday, 24 September 2011 20:31 (twelve years ago) link
thx for the recs man
so I've been dicking around in my yard and testing my gf1 sensor against the sunny 16 rule and it's kind of amazing how well the two match up? also went through a few old photos and sure enough, if I (laboriously) spitball the exposure i can get pretty close (one stop) of the recorded meter value. p cool
― (♯`∧´) (gbx), Saturday, 24 September 2011 22:52 (twelve years ago) link