shasta maybe knows more here but afaik nudie jeans are made in italy.. that's not to say the actual people making them aren't exploited african immigrants cause i don't know but they claim "no sweatshops". can't stomach h&m for that reason (and that the clothes fall apart) - it's like buying a whole chicken for $2
― Tracer Hand, Sunday, 24 January 2010 00:36 (fourteen years ago) link
I like H&M dress shirts cause they're usually slim fit. hate the boxy department store kinds. but jeez H&M seems 10x better constructed than AA stuff
― dyao, Sunday, 24 January 2010 02:52 (fourteen years ago) link
Nudie is made in Italy, they used to have a small facility in Sweden but I think they found out it's just cheaper to do it in Italy.
H&M is made all over the world, afaik they have no commitments to their production facilities so you can expect them to be globally price-shopping for the best value so that the customer who wants that £8 jean will be satisfied.
I have a couple H&M pieces (I went crazy chasing down the CommeDesGarconsxH&M collab pieces (made in Turkey and Croatia)) but I ended up ebaying quite a bit of it. The suits were actually not bad, definitely incredibly designed as far as $250US suits go. The t-shirts were pretty cool too... I kept this maroon one with flourescent blue polka dots that I think is great.
GAP: zero desire for any of that stuff, not my thing, I've been hearing nightmares about the company for a long time through industry gossip.
As for American Apparel, there is a comparable company out of North Carolina called Alternative Apparel http://www.alternativeapparel.com/Consumer.aspx that makes much finer product and actually does not exploit their workers (AmApp has had several immigration raids at their LA factories, as they are employing undocumented workers!!!).
Uniqlo jeans are great as I've said many times, if you want raw selvage denim made in Japan for a fraction of the cost of most brands, there you go. They also make black which I prefer to the indigo. I know they also sell t-shirts but I'm really not that familiar with their other merchandise. Looks like Gap/Old Navy.
APC is great, very solid dependable quality I just find their menswear lines are always really abbreviated. But everything I've ever picked up from them is really solid, it's just picking up something here and there over the years.
Jeans: I have (est.) 300 pairs, but I've been shopping vintage denim and working for denim manufacturers for most of my life. I have a similar obsession for vintage sweatshirts, which I don't think I've ever talked about on ILX but goes just as deep.
Couture likes: Paul Smith, CdG/Junya Watanabe, Dior Homme, John Varvatos; dislikes: Marc Jacobs, also most Italian stuff lately!!!
Athletic wear: I LOVE Nike ACG (esp. the Japan line), Louis Garneau, Rapha. All are very $$$ but are super comfortable, intuitive and long-lasting.
― ┌∩┐(◕_◕)┌∩┐ (Steve Shasta), Sunday, 24 January 2010 02:52 (fourteen years ago) link
Jeans: I have (est.) 300 pairs
jesus christ
― iatee, Sunday, 24 January 2010 02:56 (fourteen years ago) link
hmm think I'll get that uniqlo raw denim I've been eyein
― dyao, Sunday, 24 January 2010 02:57 (fourteen years ago) link
Steve what other Jeans do you have/collect? What's your opinion of some of the newer jeans like 4 Stroke, Allevol, Jean Shop, or Ironheart? I love my pair of Jean Shops with a straight leg. I haven't washed them in 4 months and I think they will turn out nice.
― Jacob Sanders, Sunday, 24 January 2010 03:14 (fourteen years ago) link
so am i right in assuming that it is impossible to get uniqlo anywhere in the states other than ny?
― mage pit laceration (gbx), Sunday, 24 January 2010 03:38 (fourteen years ago) link
i have decided to care about my appearance
i shop @ marshalls & tj maxx 4 the most part tbh
occassionally j crew, banana repub (tho havent liked them in a while)
― johnny crunch, Sunday, 24 January 2010 03:52 (fourteen years ago) link
I collect mostly vintage and vintage inspired jeans, mostly over the last 70 years.
I used to work with the 2 of the folks behind Jean Shop, they do a great job, I love their use of International Orange for their sundries. Pretty nice touch imo. There jeans are straight up traditional repros, unless they're doing something different recently. I like them.
I really, really like the folks at Iron Heart, but I'm becoming less of a fan of their jeans the more I wear them. I have three pairs that I've worn really hard: 634S, 634SR (the 21/23oz raw), and a custom pair that are cut off the Dior Homme 21cm pattern. I love Zimbabwe long staple cotton, but I am not in love with the indigo recipe nor the way the jeans wear (I've had the 634S's for almost 5 years). They are one of the newer JP denim companies I deal with, and the people there are all ~super~ nice (I have a pic with me and the president in my FB), but I'm just not feeling the product over the long term. THAT SAID, if it's raining out, they are the first jeans I turn to. So make of that what you will.
4 Stroke is not my thing. Way more fashion than function as far as I can tell. Lots of color, seem to be moving away from denim and into more workwear inspired twills and chinos last I saw? Kanye likes them lol.
Allevol... I randomly met the guy who either owns them or manages them at that denim store across from Rough Trade in London. He showed me their line and it reminded me of what I've seen from Naked & Famous (Canada), Takumi (USA) and Imperial (Aus)... they all source from the same denim mill in Kojima, JP. Allevol did have one jean that had this super gimmicky thing that they ripped off from either Oni or Samurai where the took the selvage and ran it THROUGH the busted seam on one of the outer legs so that the selvage was exposed along the weftside. Not a very practical design but it was certainly a way to distinguish themselves... albeit in a corny way.
― ┌∩┐(◕_◕)┌∩┐ (Steve Shasta), Sunday, 24 January 2010 04:02 (fourteen years ago) link
This shop:http://www.sonofastag.com/
― ┌∩┐(◕_◕)┌∩┐ (Steve Shasta), Sunday, 24 January 2010 04:05 (fourteen years ago) link
omg u r older than morbs!!!
― mage pit laceration (gbx), Sunday, 24 January 2010 04:06 (fourteen years ago) link
i'm catching up to Morbs fastlike.
yeah, uniqlo is only in NYC, they might have a webstore tho?
― ┌∩┐(◕_◕)┌∩┐ (Steve Shasta), Sunday, 24 January 2010 04:13 (fourteen years ago) link
p sure they dont
― b( ۠·_۠·)b (Lamp), Sunday, 24 January 2010 04:14 (fourteen years ago) link
i can't believe you guys spend so much money on clothes?― plaxico (I know, right?), Saturday, January 23, 2010 10:38 AM (9 hours ago)Jeans: I have (est.) 300 pairsjesus christ― iatee, Saturday, January 23, 2010 6:56 PM (1 hour ago)
― plaxico (I know, right?), Saturday, January 23, 2010 10:38 AM (9 hours ago)
― iatee, Saturday, January 23, 2010 6:56 PM (1 hour ago)
on a message board where someone admits they have over 2,000 LPs and nobody blinks an eye, I think we could call this "cultures of scale"? Also, it helps to be able to have access to an expense account for R&D, not to mention the tax deductions for industry related expenditures.
― ┌∩┐(◕_◕)┌∩┐ (Steve Shasta), Sunday, 24 January 2010 04:20 (fourteen years ago) link
yeah I mean I wasn't judging you for it, it's your job, just amazed that anyone could own that much clothing. how do you store them etc.?
― iatee, Sunday, 24 January 2010 04:22 (fourteen years ago) link
also yeah fashion insiders don't really get to call poor people sad, sorry phil
way to put words in my mouth. i don't recall calling anyone poor or sad.. and you of all people, being skinny and in NYC can NOT complain about not being able to find fun and cheap things to wear.
also, taking pics of fashion editors hardly qualifies me as an "insider"....
― phil-two, Sunday, 24 January 2010 06:14 (fourteen years ago) link
on a message board where someone admits they have over 2,000 LPs and nobody blinks an eye, I think we could call this "cultures of scale"?
and yes, what shasta said....
― phil-two, Sunday, 24 January 2010 06:15 (fourteen years ago) link
Steve has turned this thread into my new favorite! I had no idea that ilx had a denim guy. You said you don't like Marc Jacobs but did you ever try on his Jeans he designed for Wrangler?
― Jacob Sanders, Sunday, 24 January 2010 06:49 (fourteen years ago) link
x2 - really interesting to read your opinions Steve!
― Bill A, Sunday, 24 January 2010 11:03 (fourteen years ago) link
i don't wanna b all "save the worker" on ur thread, but there are like a billion ways that more upmarket brands get away with covering up their sweatshop production. a friend of mine interned for an up-and-coming designer over the summer and he had started getting his semi-diffusion-still-v-pricey stuff made in india but he wanted to be able to say they were made in england so they made the entire dress in india but left the main seam open, the dresses were shipped to london and sewn up. ta-daa! made in england. wherever the item is finished is what goes on the label.
― plaxico (I know, right?), Sunday, 24 January 2010 11:19 (fourteen years ago) link
steve have you ever worn pace jeans? back when I could afford expensive denim due to working in a clothes shop I used to buy their jeans a lot, think it was a swedish company, really nice.
― I see what this is (Local Garda), Sunday, 24 January 2010 11:25 (fourteen years ago) link
xpost
one would like to think that stunts like that have become notorious enough that its only a question of when the EU wade in to clear it up. there's been similar shit in all sorts of industries, "made in sheffield"&c.
― ogmor, Sunday, 24 January 2010 12:17 (fourteen years ago) link
way to put words in my mouth. i don't recall calling anyone poor or sad
p sure you called us all sad
― max, Sunday, 24 January 2010 14:05 (fourteen years ago) link
i felt sad when i read it
― I see what this is (Local Garda), Sunday, 24 January 2010 14:45 (fourteen years ago) link
not sad like you meant tho...sad like the opposite of not sad.
sometimes a whole is less unsad than its parts.
― ogmor, Sunday, 24 January 2010 14:50 (fourteen years ago) link
sometimes a whole is less unsad than its partspants.
― dyao, Sunday, 24 January 2010 14:51 (fourteen years ago) link
apparently inspired by this thread, TOAST are launching a range of man clothes next month.
― djh, Tuesday, 24 August 2010 20:27 (thirteen years ago) link
i get my ed hardy swag on the 'net (internet), for the rest of my shit i just hit up the SEARS bruv
― del griffith, Tuesday, 24 August 2010 20:36 (thirteen years ago) link
All about Filene's and Marshall's and sometimes TJ Maxx. All that Calvin Klein and John Varvatos and fancy, simple shit for cheap.
― A Chart Hit of Some Sort (Eazy), Tuesday, 24 August 2010 21:05 (thirteen years ago) link
gilt.com, lol
― turtles all the way down (mh), Tuesday, 24 August 2010 21:07 (thirteen years ago) link
For a long time I only bought clothes in the January sales, as a result of which I could go for years without buying a pair of trousers but always had too many shirts. Now I at least have an income and occasionally splash out, though I still feel bad paying full price for anything. Internet shopping is good for tracking/comparing prices on sales items, though I want to either know how the label does sizing or already have tried the item on IRL. Anytime I've Internet-shopped I've bought direct from the label.
Most of my "nice" clothes are from Paul Smith or Folk, I have a bunch of H+M/Uniqlo/found stuff to fill in the gaps. Shoes are Camper or Onitsuka Tiger.
Other labels I rate: Oliver Spencer, Reiss (sometimes), Paul and Joe, APC.
― seandalai, Tuesday, 24 August 2010 23:04 (thirteen years ago) link
As for American Apparel, there is a comparable company out of North Carolina called Alternative Apparel http://www.alternativeapparel.com/Consumer.aspx that makes much finer product and actually does not exploit their workers
Yeah, I'll buy stuff from the sleazy, exploitative company that makes stuff in L.A. any day over the "socially responsible" company that makes their shit in China.
― wk, Wednesday, 25 August 2010 01:34 (thirteen years ago) link
You can, you know, buy stuff from both. I'm assuming yr shoes, other shirts, pants, etc. are not all made in LA so it's kind of a strawman argument.
― turtles all the way down (mh), Wednesday, 25 August 2010 15:30 (thirteen years ago) link
Suit by Zegna, jacket & accessories by Ted Baker, shoes by Camper, Adidas, and Jones. Work shirts by M&S.
― Captain Ostensible (Scik Mouthy), Thursday, 26 August 2010 05:50 (thirteen years ago) link
Aw yeah, player.
― A Chart Hit of Some Sort (Eazy), Thursday, 26 August 2010 06:03 (thirteen years ago) link
― wk, Tuesday, August 24, 2010 6:34 PM (Yesterday)
When i wrote that AltApp was still made in the USA. Do your homework if you want to be a revisionist.
― _▂▅▇█▓▒░◕‿‿◕░▒▓█▇▅▂_ (Steve Shasta), Thursday, 26 August 2010 06:11 (thirteen years ago) link
american apparel is so fucking gross, i'm amazed that any conscious human being could actually buy anything with their brand upon, ever
― a dystopian society awaits if we continue on this path. (contenderizer), Thursday, 26 August 2010 06:16 (thirteen years ago) link
i dunno their t-shirts are nice
― sarahel, Thursday, 26 August 2010 06:47 (thirteen years ago) link
there was an article on don charney linked to in the AA thread that made him seem like not-that-big-of-an-asshole
― dayo, Thursday, 26 August 2010 07:26 (thirteen years ago) link
dov I meant, don charney makes me think of a hip don rickles
― dayo, Thursday, 26 August 2010 07:27 (thirteen years ago) link
The new Toast for Men campaign is oddly amusing.
― djh, Tuesday, 5 March 2013 21:51 (eleven years ago) link
Do blokes really wear £450 suits with Converse-style pumps? (As the current Toast catalogue seems to suggest).
― djh, Monday, 17 March 2014 19:24 (ten years ago) link
If male models are blokes, then yes.
― Aimless, Monday, 17 March 2014 19:31 (ten years ago) link
Lately I've had good luck waiting for those J. Crew 40% off sale items days (I get e-mails). Dress shirts for $20-30, nice wool slacks for $50-100, etc. Nordstrom clearance is also not bad.
― james franco tur(oll)ing test (Hurting 2), Monday, 17 March 2014 19:36 (ten years ago) link
My slim button down shirts look dumb when tucked in, especially to khakis. Need more shirts for work (teacher). Going to hit up lord and taylor now, wish me luck
― Treeship, Monday, 17 March 2014 19:50 (ten years ago) link
BTW Nordstrom also has really good slim dress shirts (the John W. Nordstrom) that are actually slim and don't bunch and aren't too expensive.
― james franco tur(oll)ing test (Hurting 2), Monday, 17 March 2014 19:51 (ten years ago) link
xp why do you think they look dumb?
― call all destroyer, Monday, 17 March 2014 19:52 (ten years ago) link
Too slim but mostly too short. I bought smalls because i didn't want them to be baggy. They look great untucked with jeans imo but i think i need to size up for shirts for work.
― Treeship, Monday, 17 March 2014 19:56 (ten years ago) link