S/D: Mexican food in the southwestern U.S.

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Tex-Mex vs. Arizonan (Sonoran) vs. New Mexican (with a Native American influence) vs. Californian (Baja-style). And anything else I'm leaving out.

This is where you share your love (or hate) for fry breads and fish tacos.

a collectivist romantic fling! (Jody Beth Rosen), Friday, 27 May 2005 16:37 (twenty-one years ago)

A Six-Part History of Tex-Mex

a collectivist romantic fling! (Jody Beth Rosen), Friday, 27 May 2005 16:40 (twenty-one years ago)

There's this place down in Carbondale called Garcia's that is the BOMB. It's a Mexican grocery that has a counter with the sweet-nastiest, well, everything. Dinky 'authentic' tacos for 1.50 apiece. Delish.

giboyeux (skowly), Friday, 27 May 2005 16:47 (twenty-one years ago)

I grew up with Sonoran and am fond of it, but New Mexican beats the shit out of any other variety of mexican-american food. It's all about the green sauce! And it seems a bit lighter, as well (perhaps there is less German influence?). I don't care for tex-mex, something about the different seasoning perhaps, or maybe because you're more likely to get overly americanified tex-mex (I know I shouldn't hold that against it, but hey). I don't have a ton of experience with baja-style because it's so seafood-based, but I do like how they tend to use potatoes more.

My experience is very inexact because I don't eat meat, though. I miss the lovely thin tortillas (usually made with lard, oops) and I miss green corn tamale season most of all.

teeny (teeny), Friday, 27 May 2005 16:47 (twenty-one years ago)

I love New Mexican too. The spices remind me of Ethiopian a little.

a collectivist romantic fling! (Jody Beth Rosen), Friday, 27 May 2005 16:50 (twenty-one years ago)

In the last year, fish tacos have taken over my soul.

Spencer Chow (spencermfi), Friday, 27 May 2005 17:00 (twenty-one years ago)

Good, good. You have seen the way.

Ned Raggett (Ned), Friday, 27 May 2005 17:01 (twenty-one years ago)

I don't think I've ever had anything but Tex-Mex. That's probably because I'm in the Southeast, though, and that would have the closest influence on cuisine here aside from Cajun/Creole dishes and seafood galore.

Ian Riese-Moraine's Plateau Rouge! (Eastern Mantra), Friday, 27 May 2005 17:07 (twenty-one years ago)

New Mexican spices remind you of Ethiopian? This would seriously explain my father's diet when we lived there. Unfortunately my memories of New Mexico Mexican are clouded by living there at an impressionable age; nothing I've ever eaten has tasted quite as good as beef tacos and sopapillas in Portales. In unclouded reality, though, I might have preferred southern-Colorado stuff. Tex-Mex is more like a Mexican-style barbeque and not really very exciting, I don't think; Californian is something else entirely, though fine for what it is. I don't have a clear idea of how they do it in Arizona.

nabisco (nabisco), Friday, 27 May 2005 17:28 (twenty-one years ago)

classic or dud: arizonans calling burritos "burros." I guess their burritos are just bigger or something..

Actor Sizemore fails drug test with fake penis (jingleberries), Friday, 27 May 2005 17:29 (twenty-one years ago)

no, the burros are bigger! ;)

I had no idea this was an arizonaism until I moved away.

teeny (teeny), Friday, 27 May 2005 17:33 (twenty-one years ago)

Are you originally Arizonan, Teeny? Cause for some reason I feel like that'd explain a lot.

nabisco (nabisco), Friday, 27 May 2005 17:36 (twenty-one years ago)

Navajo tacos - mmmm

http://www.foodmuseum.com/images/navajo%20taco.jpg

gabbneb (gabbneb), Friday, 27 May 2005 17:36 (twenty-one years ago)

New Mexican spices remind you of Ethiopian?

yeah, the spices in both cuisines are ruddy-tasting (that's the best way i can describe it), like if burnt-sienna had a flavor. earthy, but not in a vegetal way. also, the amount of heat is similar.

a collectivist romantic fling! (Jody Beth Rosen), Friday, 27 May 2005 17:39 (twenty-one years ago)

This is a weird thread. There are regional Mexican restaurants all over this country depending on where the owners did (or didn't) immigrate from.

gygax! (gygax!), Friday, 27 May 2005 17:43 (twenty-one years ago)

I think my vote here is obvious.

Miss Misery (thatgirl), Friday, 27 May 2005 17:44 (twenty-one years ago)

I was born in Indiana (and that's where most of my family is) but moved all over the west when I was little and finally settled in Tucson when I was 7. At 9 we moved to a little tiny town a couple hours away from Tucson, and that's where I stayed until I graduated HS.

teeny (teeny), Friday, 27 May 2005 17:45 (twenty-one years ago)

This is a weird thread. There are regional Mexican restaurants all over this country depending on where the owners did (or didn't) immigrate from.

but this thread isn't about mexican food from mexico. and this thread IS about places in the southwest where certain styles of americanized mexican food predominate.

a collectivist romantic fling! (Jody Beth Rosen), Friday, 27 May 2005 17:46 (twenty-one years ago)

supposedly in mexico, sonoran food is looked down upon as being for gringos (e.g., the aforementioned "burros").

a collectivist romantic fling! (Jody Beth Rosen), Friday, 27 May 2005 17:48 (twenty-one years ago)

but this thread isn't about mexican food from mexico. and this thread IS about places in the southwest where certain styles of americanized mexican food predominate.

Then I think you might have pegged California wrong then... No worries!

gygax! (gygax!), Friday, 27 May 2005 17:51 (twenty-one years ago)

well i'd like to think californians aren't all taco bell-eating surfer dorks, but i could be wrong!

a collectivist romantic fling! (Jody Beth Rosen), Friday, 27 May 2005 17:53 (twenty-one years ago)

Ooh burn! But seriously thinking that "Baja" Mexican food is predominant in California Mexican restaurants is a naive misconception.

gygax! (gygax!), Friday, 27 May 2005 17:57 (twenty-one years ago)

wow, in the past week i've been called naive and idiotic! this place is great for my ego.

a collectivist romantic fling! (Jody Beth Rosen), Friday, 27 May 2005 18:00 (twenty-one years ago)

There is absolutely NOTHING wrong with being naive.

gygax! (gygax!), Friday, 27 May 2005 18:02 (twenty-one years ago)

http://music.porkrind.org/KMFDM/Naive/cover.jpg

Then again.

Ned Raggett (Ned), Friday, 27 May 2005 18:16 (twenty-one years ago)

Make mine Oaxacan!

Elvis Telecom (Chris Barrus), Friday, 27 May 2005 19:39 (twenty-one years ago)

I see what you mean, J, spices-wise. (And Teeny, I think I've been following you around at a one- or two-state distance -- Illinois to New Mexico to Colorado.)

nabisco (nabisco), Friday, 27 May 2005 20:03 (twenty-one years ago)

i do love me some oaxacan food.

a collectivist romantic fling! (Jody Beth Rosen), Saturday, 28 May 2005 01:03 (twenty-one years ago)

how is mexican coke (sweetened with real cane sugar instead of corn syrup)? it's omnipresent in every convenience store and taqueria around here. apparently coca-cola's hq in atlanta is trying to block the sale of it in the states because people like it so much.

i hardly ever drink non-diet soda though.

a collectivist romantic fling! (Jody Beth Rosen), Saturday, 28 May 2005 02:53 (twenty-one years ago)

New Yorkers on this thread may be interested to hear about a new restaurant on Sullivan Street called Florencia, where they serve what they're classifying as Southern-Californian-type Mexican -- e.g. fish tacos and "Echo Park" enchiladas. It's a bit more expensive than I'd probably like, but it's refreshing to get Mexican that's actually restaurant-tasty, instead of fast-food functional; equally refreshing to get some more southwestern-type styles in it. Two-taco-type platters are around $12 or so, though the rice and beans they come with is worth eating, for a change; the $4-6 cost on a la carte tacos and enchiladas and such isn't so much of a pain if you're trying to make a delivery minimum anyway; the burritos are big, and from what I could see, not in the dry, fillery way a lot of big-ass burritos have gotten now. The classically-cheesy enchilada -- shredded meat -- hit the spot in a way nothing has since I left Colorado; nothing amazing, but they've got the regional appeal down. Hard tacos come around in those cuplike fried-tortilla shells I haven't seen in years. Will have to go back and try on the burrito soon.

nabisco (nabisco), Friday, 10 June 2005 19:43 (twenty-one years ago)

five years pass...

Man, so what is the story of Sonoran style food, aside from the "Sonoran hot dog," which I am currently quite scared of?

mercy, sportsmanship, morality (Abbott), Thursday, 22 July 2010 00:46 (fifteen years ago)

The Sonoran hot dog, found in Tucson, Metro Phoenix, and in neighboring Sonora, Mexico, is a hot dog grilled in a processor or on a griddle, wrapped in Mesquite-smoked bacon, topped with freshly chopped tomatoes, onions, shredded yellow or cotijo cheese, tomatillo salsa or red chili sauce, pinto beans, mayonnaise, ketchup and/or mustard, and served on bread. Often served with a fresh-roasted chili. Douglas, Arizona is known for the hot dog speciality with hot dog trucks lining many of the city's parks, the most famous being Rico's Hot Dogs who have claimed the 10th Street Park as their domain[1]

damn...you could leave the hot dog out of this and nobody would ever notice.

Grisly Addams (WmC), Thursday, 22 July 2010 01:08 (fifteen years ago)

OH man this is a thread for me

European Bob (admrl), Thursday, 22 July 2010 01:09 (fifteen years ago)

i don't know if it's exclusively a sonoran mexican thing as much as it is just norteno mexican food in general, but flour tortillas are way more common than corn. always always fresh too, and sit-down restaurants often make them in-house. and you can get nopalitos (cactus). and the closer you get to san diego, the more likely you are to see carne asada fries on a menu, which is what i will order as my last meal when i go to prison.

del griffith, Thursday, 22 July 2010 01:13 (fifteen years ago)

Yeah, I saw these on my last trip out to Bisbee (trucks were grilling them up in Nogales). Reminds me a lot of the bacon-wrapped dogs you find in downtown LA.

Elvis Telecom, Thursday, 22 July 2010 01:17 (fifteen years ago)

the ILLEGAL bacon-wrapped hot dogs?

homosexual II, Thursday, 22 July 2010 02:14 (fifteen years ago)

one month passes...

Jonathan Gold vs. Rick Bayless Mexican Food knife fight

Gold launched into a critique of whom he said many people call America's greatest Mexican chef: Rick Bayless.

Gold said Bayless was a "good" chef who knew his way around Mexican recipes, but he sneered at Bayless' nerve in coming to Los Angeles and opening a restaurant--Red O--that presumed to introduce Angelinos to "authentic" Mexican cuisine. In particular, Gold zeroed in on Bayless' inclusion of chilpachole--a glorious seafood soup from Veracruz--as some rarity, when Gold said the soup was easily available in the Southland, along with dozens of other Mexican regional specialties. Very true: I saw Red O's menu, and you can purchase nearly every meal he offers somewhere in Southern California (and most of them in Orange County, even). Gold also said the decor of Red O made the restaurant seem as "if it survived a nuclear blast," much to the delight of the crowd, who snacked on Argentine- and Spanish-inspired appetizers offered by the ever-flexible, ever-impressive Marché Moderne team.

The food god went on to extol the virtues of Southern California's own homegrown Mexican cuisine--the burritos with no real provenance to Mexico, yet wholly wabby, the baked nachos, the tacos. Gold mentioned a burrito place, whose name I can no longer remember because I was on my fourth glass of Cabernet, but made the note the restaurant was essentially a fraud: the woman who had run it for decades wasn't the woman in the restaurant's name, and there was no first location even though this particular place advertised itself as the second location. Was it Lucy's #2? Linda's? Licha's?

Ah, who cares? Gold's point was well-taken: nothing funnier on Earth than outsiders trying to lecture Mexis on what constitutes authentic and real. I like Bayless, and he is a seminal figure in the history of Mexican food in the United States, but nothing better than seeing the king of all food critics take down a giant.

Bayless replies in the comments and the sparks fly...

Elvis Telecom, Tuesday, 31 August 2010 05:15 (fifteen years ago)

god bless j. gold

jeff, Tuesday, 31 August 2010 05:21 (fifteen years ago)

Street Gourmet LA visits Bayless' Red O and is underwhelmed

(n.b. I don't mind Bayless too much, but damn he can be a tremendous tool. His anti-LA stance is grating and I can't stand his missionary stance on how street food needs to be uplifted to gourmet status to be taken seriously.)

Elvis Telecom, Tuesday, 31 August 2010 05:39 (fifteen years ago)

Rick Bayless is the worst. lol. he's like the Weird Al of mexican food.

Fartbritz Sootzveti (Steve Shasta), Tuesday, 31 August 2010 05:49 (fifteen years ago)

except not funny.

Fartbritz Sootzveti (Steve Shasta), Tuesday, 31 August 2010 05:50 (fifteen years ago)

bayless' chicago restaurants are exceptional but it's a poor fight to pick and red o sounds like a a clusterfuck. it's weird b/c his other places are very friendly and red o sounds like it's being run like a bad nightclub.

('_') (omar little), Tuesday, 31 August 2010 06:04 (fifteen years ago)


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