ils menswear and men's clothing part 2: 2023 until we all need stillsuits

just checking in to say i haven't reached the turtleneck phase yet but we can circle back to this post in 10 years

i guess i'm ok with the turtleneck as like a 'settling into type' of some kind? way out of my lane though.

i got a corny email from filson after i bought my trucker hat from them, like "how do you like your provisions?" below a huge image of some dude on horseback, and i wimpered in shame because i loved it lol.

one of the funniest all time garments is the mock turt

https://i.imgur.com/SSUTVq7.png

mock turts can be hot but only if you're a professional football player

athlete driving a jeep is the prototypical mock turt wearer, you could even have a team turt with the logo on the collar, but then somehow steve job in a high fashion mock turt is its most famous wearer

it's sad imo, fuck steve jobs

make mock turts great again

i respect that he sought out an expensive japanese mock turt and wore one every day, true lunatic behavior

sleeveless mock turts in a jeep or gtfo

amen brother, & the mock turt maker better send me an email saying "happy trails" after it's delivered to me.

It's the only type of shirt that is also a type of soup

As far as I know

Red wing and Nintendo have teamed up to bring Super Mario’s Shoes To Life (2023) pic.twitter.com/0yqFdXnpqf

— Outlander Magazine (@StreetFashion01) March 10, 2023

lmao

cant wait to stomp on all my enemies

https://www.cnn.com/2023/05/09/australia/australia-william-leslie-arnold-cold-case-intl-hnk-dst/index.html

wow chambray double needle workshirt, such authentic, is it selvedge, where can i cop?

‘Well, he was an orphan. He didn’t lie about that, but he killed his parents, that’s why he was an orphan.’

👌

who's looking snazzy for summer

https://img.staticdj.com/0db3f52ccc134a79e32104a267bc5f39_1080x.jpeg

for real though i got this filson mechanic shirt and i can't wait to cosplay rough trade at the club

https://filson-canto.imgix.net/3qrso6g9vh57785bqmdpdcil37/gs6KD7w7k41qERPg97FERgdWi3Y/original?h=2000&w=2000&bg=ffffff&q=80&auto=format,compress&fit=fillmax

stussy has done many iterations on this workwear classic

besides the fact that i've never quite been able to pull off hickory stripe, i also have a morbid fear of catching my chest hair when adjusting the zip

i could not make it work personally but it's a cool style of shirt

my summer look is “aging crustpunk” or “hippie preppy”

The one with the half zip is odd but it is at least comprehensible as clothing for a male adult human in the western hemisphere.

I don't really understand the blue shirt above it with what I guess is a keyhole neckline?

Not my personal thing, but if that is something you wish to wear, go ahead; rock on with your bad selves.

I do not know what crust is so I'm prolly gonna keep dressing like my father, my stepfather, and almost every male person I ever knew who has a PhD in the humanities and a drinking problem. Our collective aesthetic is "louche English professor" and mostly it is working out for us.

We wear tweed nine months out of the year and linen for three months, and we do okay.

god bless

i'm also on the lookout for the douchiest sport sunglasses imaginable, i think it might have to be these oakleys

https://assets2.oakley.com/cdn-record-files-pi/c6ca0fe9-4ff1-43c5-8fa3-aefd00ef8cc0/77a5f4ac-6e0d-4929-bd9d-aefd00f83d56/0OO9271__927153__P21__shad__qt.png?impolicy=OO_ratio&width=2000

for the record, the blue shirt was a joke

i used to sling secondhand & vintage clothing as a side hustle and have the kind of eclectic wardrobe that goes with the territory.

my favorite stuff has tended to be postwar era- not too military, not too rockabilly, more outdoor and phys ed apparel. it's blockish and severe and looks good with my buzz cut.

i've gained a lot of weight in the last few years, though. i resisted buying any new clothes, instead i've tried to squeeze into anything i had that was oversized or less fitted. but it's got to the point where that's no longer an option.

so the first thing i noticed is that used clothes cost as much as new clothes now. not just coveted vintage pieces, i mean absolutely everything. wtf?? i guess i'm glad more people are buying secondhand shit but this is crazy.

i'm not going to buy fast fashion bullshit that falls apart in 3 months and ends up in a landfill. i'm not going invest in heirloom pieces because of my fluctuating weight (i was S/P and could fit into youth sizes, now i'm a true M/L) and also i'm living with uncertainties about my health. and i'm def not paying what ridiculous vintage repro brands charge for basics, holy shit.

digging around the online secondhand market a bit, it's really hard to find anything that justifies the price. Billy Reid stuff is about the best value, with a lot of pieces made in Italy under $30. i'm also seeing some deals for Steven Alan, though the quality and price point is much more variable there. this kind of stuff is a little more "normal guy" than what i usually go for, but i like it well enough i guess. the guys i see on the subway who dress like that always look like they have their ducks in a row. the problem is that as it's sort of blandish no individual piece inspires me to pull the trigger.

i'm through with buying clothes, forever. fashion is the biggest racket going, better drop those pounds fast i guess.

Not my personal thing, but if that is something you wish to wear, go ahead; rock on with your bad selves.

fixed

gah

Not my personal thing, but if that is something you wish to wear, go ahead; rock on with your bad selves.

:D

i doubt this is up your alley because it's very military but i need to evangelize about soffe silkies (or "ranger panties") for a second. if there was a god in heaven more men with nice legs would wear them. they're incredibly short. they're also incredibly comfortable. i wear them to the gym every day, whaddup.

https://cdn10.bigcommerce.com/s-19fkae7/products/361/images/1548/M020_ranger-olive__50494.1563829773.1280.1280.jpg?c=2

i once sold a pair of champion running man herringbone gym shorts in military olive color with a < 3" inseam for like $150.

i have 1940s basketball shorts somewhere that are shorter. alas, my legs have seen better days.

ftr i am pro gym shorts. on guys with nice legs it's not even a question.

YMP, “crust punk” is wearing cut-off tees with hardcore bands or cop-fighting anime characters or trains on them with booty shorts . it gets hot in Philly.

“hippie preppy” is wearing nicer clothes but they’re a little too bright and strange and it might seem like i’m on drugs. LL Bean but make it drug-running

preppie gone druggy is classic story

i like ll bean too, but it's a good example of the secondhand market insanity with items that used to reliably fetch $10-15 starting around $50. guess i'm done with ll bean.

Seth from Dufus is the ultimate crust punk. he doesn't wear a ton of black but i saw him on the G train c. 2001 with huge mounds of actual garbage glued to his shoes.

whats a good bargain on the second hand market these days

Wow I literally have no idea what you folks are talking about but okay

I only shop LL Bean at discount shops or at the outlets in Maine— I save a couple hundred just for clothes on my annual Maine trip.

(or at least I try)

i find ll bean made in usa pieces on ebay for $10-15 regularly. usually when sellers don't put it in the title and you gotta scroll the pics to see the tags. 90s era denim/chambray shirts in partic.

not usa but ll bean camp collar shirts are plentiful, affordable, and good for summer. i have two in a pleasingly colonialist batik print that look great with the sleeves rolled way way up for flexing purposes (the default unrolled silhouette is very tommy bahama).

levis 550s (the relaxed fit) are very cheap on ebay and comfortable year round in nyc imo.

my man!

am i not as patient and resourceful as i used to be or are we looking at different pieces?

not seeing a big price difference between made in usa and imported tbh. i have seen the camp shirts real cheap! i don't want em because tommy bahama silhouette is otm

also i like camp shirts a lot but why does every fucking short sleeve shirt have a camp collar now?

annual Maine trip.

ppl who have figured out how to live

As much as I like the patterns on a lot of camp collar shirts, I am very much sticking with butch collars; they just sit better on me. I’m currently scouting around for colourful print shirts, but with long sleeves. I never actually wear them long; instead I roll them up high above the elbow, as the shape nicely masks my skinny upper arms.

camp collar is code for “i’m available”, can’t believe you guys didn’t know this

deflatormouse, one of my oldest friends comes from some money, her family has a spot on an island off of Maine— dreamy place, but i certainly couldn’t afford such a trip if i were paying for anything besides gas, tolls, and gifts

I'm happy that this forest-green Land's End barn jacket, with a corduroy collar -- it was my late dads, from the 80s/90s -- is now suddenly in style.

like a Barbour jacket?

A lot like this one (I guess Lands' End is still making them!).

Oh, and here's the jacket itself on Ebay, though mine is less faded.

that sounds amazing table, my last comment was without irony or judgement, i'm glad you get to experience that place! i've only been to maine once, with a guy i was dating who grew up in the portland area. we went for a visit and hit boothbay, it was insanely beautiful.

as midcentury leisure shirts go i'm into the early 60's italian collar and have one in my rotation currently
https://www.themoviescene.co.uk/reviews/_img/8384-3.jpg

those barn jackets never went out of style.

i have one, it makes me look hopelessly awful

my enormous 80s bean barn jacket--with a waxed poacher's pocket and webbing for shotgun shells--is one of my prize ebay scores. it is best with the collar flipped up

I've been thinking about what I could contribute to this thread. I bought this pair of shoes a couple of months ago, they're the most comfortable shoes I've ever worn:

Allbirds Men's Tree Dasher Relay

Not really. I do feel like the tendency here seems to be somewhat conservative? I’m still grumpy that nabisco suggested that some of my favorite flannels look like alienware laptops.

I've always been a little on the conservative side myself. I grew up with a dad who wore suits to my little league games. We have a photo of him as a young child in a suit on the beach. His dad made suits.

I also work in a field that tends to be more conservative, although my office is casual now. I still feel a little weird when I wear jeans to work even when they're "nice" jeans. I had an argument with my family about how I don't think there's such a thing as "nice sweatpants."

Most of my dressing is either for the office or just weekend bumming around. I'm a suburban dad and have no reason to not dress like one. I like wearing my patagonia jacket (actually the inside of a 3-in-1 coat) everywhere not so much because I love the way it looks, although I like it, but because it says "I'm here to pick up my kids." No one will ever doubt that I'm there to pick up my kids when I'm wearing my patagonia jacket.

There are pairs of sweatpants that cost as much as 2-3 pairs of decent jeans, and they’re better constructed than those jeans, too.

in my world, jeans and suit pants and pretty much all other forms of long pants other than sweatpants are simply not even part of the thought process. this world sucks, why do i need to be uncomfortable in it just so i can fit into some bourgeois ideas of propriety?

It's prob a life's work to define our own personal relationship to menswear or streetwear or both, lol

I would completely agree with that

yeah, agreed. i only came around to sweats a few years ago, now i wear them most of the time in the colder months and actively resent when i have to put proper jeans on. i even bring an extra pair of sweats with me so if i have to run errands after teaching, i don’t have be uncomfortable.

I received my overshirt, and I'm very happy with it. I'll probably wear it as a shirt rather than a jacket for the most part. Very lucky to nab one at a steep discount that is an actually nice, non-garish color combination.

Probably the most comfortable pair of pants I've ever owned is my tailored wool pants from Suit
Supply. But... almost as inappropriate for everyday use
in my life as sweats.

Moleskin pants have been the most comfortable ones I've ever worn. Had a Gap pair in the 90s and then a few from the Canadian brand Caban...All wore out from heavy use, but loved 'em and still keep an eye out for similar ones.

Ok but do you have any idea how many moles need to die to make those pants

I am becoming a suits an t-shirts person. I really like wearing a suit especially since I lost weight. I also got a bunch of really good had me downs from my dad who is going the other way.

I don’t like the open collar under a suit, wear a tie if you are going to wear a shirt. Australian men, especially estate agents love a blue suit that doesn’t fit and is far too tight. A well fitting suit is a joy.

Anyway I was walking down the street in shinjuku today - green custom tailored suit from vietnam, pink. Onitsuka tiger shoes, pink paul smith belt, white Uniqlo T-shirt and brown and silver Sou Sou hanten - I walked past a street fashion suit and and the thought came to me, ‘you should be photographing me’

Utter vanity but I feel very good about it.

That sounds pretty great.

I don't currently own a suit, which is a shame on my behalf. Since the WFH revolution i haven't actually really needed one. The last wedding I went to, I went summer casual as it was very warm. I find the cut of suits seems to change quite dramatically in just a few years, so im holding g off for tge right occasion to buy one

lol Ed that rules.

i've started wearing bandanas with collar shirts as a kind of halfway house. it's fun (for me) and kind of "finishes" the shirt but without any of the formality implied by a tie.

I have recently started buying wool (or similar) suits too. I feel like it can go nice with a plain coloured cashmere jumper underneath, as its chilly atm.

Re: fit, I have a few jackets, some of them pretty high quality but the one I keep coming back to costs like £60 that I got at John Lewis because it just fits absolutely perfectly. The more I've investigated tailoring the more I've realised my shoulders are quite narrow and one of them has a pretty significant drop, so pretty much everything I look at the shoulders are too wide, or one of them is fine and the other is too wide, or they're too tight. Annoying! i think this is why so many people like Italian unstructured jackets because they just kind of drape on you a bit more, they're more forgiving.

I'm also big into bandanas with collared shirts. I've got six bandanas, and it's fun to match them up.

https://cdn.hanna-barberawiki.com/thumb/4/47/Fred_Jones.png/300px-Fred_Jones.png

I have two Engineered Garments suit jackets, a linen one for summer and a wool one for winter. Idk what the chances of it are but the fit is absolutely perfect for me off the peg. They weren't cheap but they are truly all-time pieces.

lol it me

xpost

I love those Engineered Garments jackets. I should be combing the internet for those.

If I could afford it, I'd have a closet full of different suits and jackets. The older I get, the deeper we get into casual WFH-wear, the more I love getting dressed up and do so at every opportunity.

I also really love the contrast of piercings and neck tattoos with high end fashion. (I don't have any neck tattoos but there's still time.)

That’s the thing right there. I’m such a shlub when I’m WFH or even at my coworking so it’s nice to turnout to a meeting or an event well turned out.

And I’m lucky to have had this amazing batch of hand me downs which included some Oswald Boatengs and some Gieves and Hawkes which add to a couple of paul smiths, and a vivienne westwood (all a bit big for me now) and a couple of suits I had tailored in Vietnam.

Suits can be a challenge down here. So much blue - and I get why blue is the default colour, it matches most skin tones, just not the pasty pink Northern European one.

Look at the state of this:

https://cdn.prod.www.manager-magazin.de/images/d4277bad-27be-4bdb-a61f-a7968a20ca6d_w1840_r1.778_fpx52_fpy30.webp

This photo gets used a lot, it’s the last public sighting of Rupert, Lachlan and James all together. Surely they could afford a decent tailor?

Too tight, wrinkles everywhere, and the worst possible blue; at least they are wearing ties. It’s the style template for every Australian estate agent, banker, big four consultant…

they are bad ties tho

I really dig a good bandana. Unfortunately there is another shaven-headed black man on my floor at work who has made them a real signature accessory, to a point where it'd be genuinely awkward for me to show up in one.

The hiking-boot thing I was going on about upthread has led me on an unexpected tilt into outdoorsy stuff in general, in sort of a 70s climber vein. Came in handy as we got slammed with snow and cold here, and it suddenly worked especially well to be in, like, serious boots and a Bean sweater and layers of retro fleeces and thin puffers. (I've spent thirty-some years wearing wool winter coats, but I gotta admit, some of these ultralight technical things are ... functionally satisfying.) The usual gorpcore stuff still looks bad to me — too techy and synthetic, I think — but old-fashioned Ivy-League-goes-hiking things are nice? I'd assumed this was all me getting old and abandoning style in favor of utility, but I think it's actually a function of (a) growing up in Colorado in the 80s and having nice associations with this stuff, plus (b) the current general vibe being boxy-baggy and casual in a way where being sort of cozy and practical feels right. Only wrinkle is that I've been wearing fuzzy wool sweaters most every day for months — gonna be a wild shift when it warms up and I have to put them away.

I love those Engineered Garments jackets. I should be combing the internet for those.

idk what city you're in but there's a shop in london owned by eg and needles and a few other brands and they have sales where the eg jackets are half price.

Any good menswear youtubers you guys enjoy? Just watched a very accessible yet smart video on city boy but the channel's all Japanese fashion and that's a bit niche.

I was in Uniqlo the other week to buy a sweater and in the men’s section they have a rack of women’s clothes with a sign on them saying ‘men also like these’.

As a result I now have a pair of culottes which are just perfect for these variable autumn days.

Feeling this approach

Are those t-shirts with oversized shoulders and sleeves finally on their way out? I hope so. One of the douchiest looks ever conceived.

i’m afraid the ol’ drop shoulder will be with us for awhile

can we get a pic of this

yeezygaptshirt.jpg

here's an extreme example
https://5.imimg.com/data5/SELLER/Default/2021/5/AL/QU/CF/11249880/drop-shoulder-t-shirt-1000x1000.JPG

NGL, i like this look and wear it often, but then again i have huge shoulders for someone my size, so not busting out of every damn teeshirt is nice

can we get a pic of this

― Cattedrale metropolitana di Santa Maria de Episcopio, Thursday, July 16, 2026 8:29 PM (four days ago) bookmarkflaglink

https://scontent-iad3-2.xx.fbcdn.net/v/t39.30808-6/639794750_868955549477027_2572252892691836392_n.jpg?stp=dst-jpg_tt6&cstp=mx1196x1440&ctp=p526x296&_nc_cat=103&ccb=1-7&_nc_sid=833d8c&_nc_ohc=FlOP5ziTZKkQ7kNvwFB99ya&_nc_oc=Adqx2vdccaJDPQDWQF-6Cjebp3O580iZB-QkfTq0xphi2zgzQMVJxEIHPPtLisgCL4c&_nc_zt=23&_nc_ht=scontent-iad3-2.xx&_nc_gid=3Wd_0BEiXidKvNq46Q2lPQ&_nc_ss=7b2a8&oh=00_AQAF_xapmeAyzQ2h8DT_J43BkG8Lk6bqC6kX6f3eNWBNPw&oe=6A645207

its so comfortable tho

xp well tbf zuck looks like a "douche" in every outfit, it's a gift he has

The “Andy Cooks” dude on YouTube makes it look reasonable. Not fashionable imo but he’s clearly comfortable and doing his own thing

linen pants. i need linen pants.

Luckily, they’re everywhere this summer!

finally a good trend in menswear

Linen pants + oversized short sleeves

in all seriousness, I personally like the big sleeved Muji shirts.

i keep getting advertised like 5 pairs of linen trousers for £9 on tiktok

unsurprisingly Uniqlo have some great linen trousers for a good price. my son decided he liked mine so i wound up going on Vinted to get the exact same pair again

noted

will head there and m&s during lunch i think

just fyi their current ones are cut very full so you need to be ok with a loose, wide fit

With the drop-shouldered t-shirt I think there's a sleeve modification that lifts the look a lot? Of having the sleeves be proportionally shorter and cut so the hem angles upward and outward, more than they wouild in a straight-sized oversized shirt. The drooped shoulder plus long puddling sleeves that bunch at the elbow is overwhelming to the body + too many downward lines. Some people with a certain physique can pull it off but not most.

just fyi their current ones are cut very full so you need to be ok with a loose, wide fit

― Tracer Hand, 21 July 2026 09:14 (four hours ago) bookmarkflaglink

waitll they get a load of me

Las summer I was desperate to find a pair of loose fit brown linen trousers for a casual occasion and couldn't seem to find them anywhere. Now I see them all over the place

Get them whilst you can we’ll be back to 10 years of tight stuff only soon enough.

Total idiotic loyalty to Uniqlo linen shirts - I live in them in the summer and on holiday, each year buy another one - but have never tried the trousers.

OK I wish they'd bring the breast pocket back on the shirts.