Eggsperiments

Message Bookmarked
Bookmark Removed
From So what have you cooked lately? (Year two.)

I'm trying out the super-slow-cooked eggs tonight. Here's the paragraph I found on them in Harold McGee's On Food and Cooking:
"Long-Cooked Eggs An intriguing alternative to the standard hard-cooked egg is the Middle Eastern hamindas (Hebrew) or beid hamine (Arabic), which are cooked for anywhere from 6 to 18 hours. They derive from the Sephardic Sabbath mixed stew (called hamin, from the Hebrew for "hot"), which was put together on Friday, cooked slowly in the oven overnight, and served as a midday Sabbath meal. Eggs included in the stew shell and all, or alternatively long-simmered in water, come out with a stronger flavor and a striking, tan-colored white. During the prolonged heating in alkaline conditions, the quarter-gram of glucose sugar in the white reacts with albumin protein to generate flavors and pigments typical of browned foods (...). The white will be very tender and the yolk creamy if the cooking temperature is kept in a very narrow range, between 160 and 165 deg F."

Jaq (Jaq), Tuesday, 14 February 2006 02:27 (eighteen years ago) link

The lowest setting my oven will take is 170 deg. I've got 6 big eggs covered in filtered water in a 3 qt. covered casserole. I'm not sure if I should put some baking soda in the water to make it alkaline. Maybe things are already alkaline inside the shell. I'll just let this batch go as is and see what we get for breakfast.

I used some of the freshest eggs we had in the fridge, picked up from the farm on Friday, so they are probably 5-7 days old.

Jaq (Jaq), Tuesday, 14 February 2006 02:32 (eighteen years ago) link

Yay, I'm trying this tonight too! I have a dozen eggs in 165-degree plain water, not covered, in a Pyrex pan in my oven. The ones I've eaten were definitely rich brown, not tan: I think they were cooked with onion skins to intensify the color.

Paul Eater (eater), Tuesday, 14 February 2006 02:54 (eighteen years ago) link

It didn't actually work as advertised for me - the white was still very white and tentatively set, the yolk bright orange and creamy as butter. I had the yolk spread on toast, very mild tasting, on par with a soft-boiled.

The oven temp must not regulate properly at the lower end. I might try it again tonight at 180 - 185 deg F, and with older eggs. Apparently, the egg interior becomes slightly more alkaline as it ages (according to Harold McGee) and this is why hard-boiled older eggs are easier to peel.

Jaq (Jaq), Tuesday, 14 February 2006 15:19 (eighteen years ago) link

These look great. I am going to do them overnight on Saturday with some Ful Medames for Sunday breakfast.

aldo_cowpat (aldo_cowpat), Tuesday, 14 February 2006 15:34 (eighteen years ago) link

Here's pictorial evidence. I'm trying this again tonight at a higher temp.

http://www.theilliterate.com/archives/illiterati/sm_egg.JPG

Jaq (Jaq), Wednesday, 15 February 2006 03:11 (eighteen years ago) link

My water bath crept up to 171 degrees after an hour and held steady there. Twelve hours later, my eggs were distinctly tan. The flavor is nutty/pretzely, with a tiny hint of caramel and sulfur. There's a definite custardiness to the texture: the white is firm but gives rather than breaking if you push on it. I left part of the batch in for 18 hours but the extra time doesn't seem to have made much difference.

http://static.flickr.com/41/100152821_3237c5d9a0.jpg?v=0

Paul Eater (eater), Wednesday, 15 February 2006 19:51 (eighteen years ago) link

I am guessing that the low temperature primarily affects the texture, and that the same flavor effects could be achieved in half an hour at a full boil. Of course the whites would be tough. But I'm out of eggs for now so I can't test that theory.

Paul Eater (eater), Wednesday, 15 February 2006 19:53 (eighteen years ago) link

Oh cool! Also, awesome egg cup! I didn't try this last night as we went out to dinner late, but will probably try it again tonight.

I wonder about the 1/2 hour full boil - this is how I used to make hard-boiled eggs before I knew any better (well, boiling for 20 minutes, but sometimes you forget), and I don't remember anything like this happening.

Jaq (Jaq), Wednesday, 15 February 2006 20:16 (eighteen years ago) link

btw, I could fed-ex you a couple dozen...... :)

Jaq (Jaq), Wednesday, 15 February 2006 20:26 (eighteen years ago) link

So I tried this again last night. Cranked the oven setting up to 185 deg F, but didn't put the eggs in until 9. This morning at 5, they were still completely unset. Maybe I'll leave them in the oven all day and check them tonight.

Jaq (Jaq), Thursday, 16 February 2006 13:25 (eighteen years ago) link

Jaq, are you using a thermometer or just what the dial on the oven tells you? Around these parts, even ten minutes at 185 sets an egg pretty firm!

Today I'm enjoying a tan egg sliced into a sandwich with some strong mustard.

Paul Eater (eater), Thursday, 16 February 2006 15:13 (eighteen years ago) link

Too lazy to put the thermometer in :) When I get home tonight, I'll find it and get an accurate read on the oven. RJM is placing the blame squarely on the Le Crueset pan, but I think the cast iron would be advantageous since it holds the heat so well.

Jaq (Jaq), Thursday, 16 February 2006 15:35 (eighteen years ago) link

I am leaving the remaining eggs in the oven all day today, btw. We'll see what 16 hours does for them. I really want to try a pretzely egg sandwich!

Jaq (Jaq), Thursday, 16 February 2006 16:12 (eighteen years ago) link

hmm, my mom has done this forever as part of sabbath meals, but i hated the eggs because the white was rubbery and the yolk covered in green, and all pretty sulfury smelling. the low temperature HAS to be key because they never looked at all like Jaq's beautiful pic up there.

AaronK (AaronK), Thursday, 16 February 2006 18:02 (eighteen years ago) link

Hrm. I think it is a clue that the oven is not at the advertised temperature when I can reach in there with my BARE HANDS and pull the pan out! Also, the white has just barely set, sort of gelled, but definitely not anywhere near solid. I found the oven thermometer, but it bottoms out at 200. I've set the temp at 215, let's see what we get shall we?

Jaq (Jaq), Friday, 17 February 2006 01:22 (eighteen years ago) link

So it looks like the oven is off by about 20 deg at the low end. At 350 and 425 it's on the mark.

Jaq (Jaq), Friday, 17 February 2006 03:24 (eighteen years ago) link

You ought to treat yourself to a thermometer like this if you don't have one. I've gotten in the habit of using it all the time, and it helps a lot; it gives you a better feel for what sorts of things happen at what temperatures. (I only wish it had a logging/graphing feature.)

Paul Eater (eater), Friday, 17 February 2006 18:21 (eighteen years ago) link

Paul, you know where to find all the good toys :)

I've unsuccessfully cooked 4 batches of these poor eggs. I left 4 from last night (whites consistent with batch 1, this morning) in the oven today, at 220 deg, which showed as 200 on the dial thermometer. The water in the pan had that "about to simmer" look this morning, but still unsolid whites. Maybe RJM is right and it is the pan (some sort of magic cast iron heat shield?).

I'm glad it's almost the weekend.

Jaq (Jaq), Friday, 17 February 2006 18:32 (eighteen years ago) link

xpost

i wonder why i never thought of using my multimeter with a thermocouple...some of these DO have data logging capability, but you need to run them to a PC with the right software.

AaronK (AaronK), Friday, 17 February 2006 18:38 (eighteen years ago) link

Oh, that's a thought - I've got a Fluke here at the office. A 100 ohm RTD might be a better choice than a TC though. I think I've got one with a 316 SS sheath somewhere....

Jaq (Jaq), Friday, 17 February 2006 18:41 (eighteen years ago) link

Okay! We have near-success! After 8 hours at the 200 mark and 10 hours at the 220 mark, we have lovely pretzely scented eggs with caramel flavored custardy whites and creamy, bright orange yolks!!! The whites aren't particularly tan, or solid enough to peel, but a few more hours would have done that. The next batch will be done at the 230 mark overnight, which may prove the right combination.

Jaq (Jaq), Saturday, 18 February 2006 00:40 (eighteen years ago) link

haha jaq you sound like you like this guy

http://www.channelguidemag.com/brown/images/Brown_Alton_3.jpg

i do.

AaronK (AaronK), Saturday, 18 February 2006 17:01 (eighteen years ago) link

Time to pickle!

pixel farmer (Rock Hardy), Saturday, 18 February 2006 18:06 (eighteen years ago) link

Indeed it is time for the pickling to begin! Any hints, tips, links to recipes most welcome!

AaronK, I've never watched Alton Brown, but I think I will tivo him now. (I'm way behind the curve on TV chefs - I just watched Iron Chef for the first time in November and Rachel Ray a few weeks ago...)

That reminds me though - on Iron Chef US at Thanksgiving, someone made scotch eggs - another egg thing to try!

Jaq (Jaq), Saturday, 18 February 2006 21:33 (eighteen years ago) link

Uh-oh, called my bluff. This is where I admit that my pickled eggs were always too vinegary, eye-wateringly tart. I think I used straight vinegar + spices, which made them too strong and a little rubbery. I think 60/40 vinegar/water + spices, or even 50/50, would work better.

I found this compendium of recipes, including tasting notes. I'll check my cookbooks and mass of loose recipes later.

pixel farmer (Rock Hardy), Saturday, 18 February 2006 23:25 (eighteen years ago) link

Etiquette question of the day: Is it wrong to bring a dozen eggs to a dinner party as a gift, if you're also bringing a bottle of wine?

Jaq (Jaq), Sunday, 19 February 2006 00:35 (eighteen years ago) link

not if they're deviled!

also, alton brown is wonderful, probably thte one thing i miss most about the food network.

AaronK (AaronK), Sunday, 19 February 2006 01:20 (eighteen years ago) link

OTM. Not many Food TV shows have their own DVD sets, and only one of those is good enough to deserve it.

pixel farmer (Rock Hardy), Sunday, 19 February 2006 01:53 (eighteen years ago) link

too right, Good eats is what Bittorrent was made for, especially as the chances of it being shown over here are slim to none.

We do get No reservations, the Bourdain show though and that's great, even if it's more a travel show than a food show.

The only way I really like whole eggs boiled is as a scotch egg, thre is an indian variation too which uses a highly spiced mince which would be a good idea to try.....

Porkpie (porkpie), Sunday, 19 February 2006 16:13 (eighteen years ago) link

So, the male half of the friends who had us over for dinner last night has been reading our blog and, after gamely asking if I could possibly write up the directions for doing a single biscuit and single long-cooked egg AT THE SAME TIME, bravely volunteered to be on the tasting team for the pickled egg experiment. Female half agreed, as long as he banished himself to MANWORLD (their garage/shop) for several hours post-consumption, due to off-gassing. He gave me the toothpick tip, i.e. run a wooden toothpick down the long axis of each egg, so the flavors from the pickling solution wick into the yolk. Which sounds like a good plan to me, as long as consumers are warned. Also, thought of using bamboo skewers instead, leaving handles, for the full county fair "food on a stick" treatment.

Porkpie - my father-in-law asked why I didn't cook hard-boiled eggs into the center of my raised pork pies. Is this a typical thing? I'm pretty happy with the results without egg twee-ness.

Jaq (Jaq), Monday, 20 February 2006 00:59 (eighteen years ago) link

Yes! It's called Gala Pie. The only picture I can find is of this thing, which looks like the sort of gala pie you'd get in a supermarket.
http://www.ajdollshouseonline.com/images/0/aj0377a.jpg

Mooro, who works in da catering trade, told me that commercial gala pies are made using a thing called Long Egg, which is made by separating the yolks and whites, then magically forming them into one long tube with the yolk running through the middle. The tube is then cut to the same length as the rectangular pie dish, thus ensures that every slice of gala pie has an equal amount of egg.

Mädchen (Madchen), Monday, 20 February 2006 10:53 (eighteen years ago) link

that's kind of amazing.

AaronK (AaronK), Monday, 20 February 2006 13:47 (eighteen years ago) link

I love long egg! Jaq, there's a new project for you.

Paul Eater (eater), Monday, 20 February 2006 15:13 (eighteen years ago) link

The yard of flannel sounds good, potentially:

* 1 l. Ale
* 4 Eggs
* 3 tbsp. Sugar
* 1/2 tsp. Ground Nutmeg
* 1/2 tsp. Ground Cinnamon
* 1/2 cup Haitian Rum
* Boiling Water

Heat ale in a pan on low heat. Beat eggs with ingredients and pour into a pitcher. Pour ale and egg mixture together and mix until frothy. Serves about 4. Be Sure to rinse everything with the boiling water before mixing!

Paul Eater (eater), Monday, 20 February 2006 15:26 (eighteen years ago) link

WOW! Long egg takes a MACHINE!!! We might have room in the garage!

Jaq (Jaq), Monday, 20 February 2006 15:46 (eighteen years ago) link

The Legendary Monster Egg

Break a dozen or two of eggs and separate the whites from the yolks. Tie the yolks in a pig’s bladder, boil them hard, and remove them. In a larger pig’s bladder, place the whites. Into the midst of the whites, place the set wolks and tie the bladder tight. Boil the whole until the whites harden and then remove from the water. Serve the Monster Egg on a bed of spinach.

Come on, you know you want to.

Matt (Matt), Monday, 20 February 2006 16:06 (eighteen years ago) link

Is there going to be another Food Science Day this year?

Mädchen (Madchen), Monday, 20 February 2006 16:48 (eighteen years ago) link

Serve the Monster Egg on a bed of spinach.

With hollandaise sauce, natch. **arteries explode**

pixel farmer (Rock Hardy), Monday, 20 February 2006 16:55 (eighteen years ago) link

Heh, have you seen what comes top of the list if you tap "long egg" into google?

Mädchen (Madchen), Monday, 20 February 2006 16:59 (eighteen years ago) link

I wonder what sort of looks I'd get at the butcher if I asked for pig bladders?

Google, for all your long egg sex toy needs :)

Jaq (Jaq), Monday, 20 February 2006 17:28 (eighteen years ago) link

I'm eager to try some of these techniques for making Chinese preserved eggs -- one of my favorite foods -- but the use of lead oxide is a little alarming. I'll do a little more research.

Paul Eater (eater), Thursday, 23 February 2006 19:15 (eighteen years ago) link

I've never tried an egg like that. I wonder if our favorite dim sum place in Seattle would have them? How are they usually eaten - like a soft boiled egg, from the shell? Food made with lead is scary though, even though the concentration ended up quite small in those recipes.

Today we are off to the Ranch & Home store for large-sized mason jars so I can start some egg pickling.

Jaq (Jaq), Saturday, 25 February 2006 16:33 (eighteen years ago) link

For reference: 12 peeled hard-boiled eggs just fit in a 1 quart mason jar.

Jar 1 contains: 50/50 apple cider vinegar and water, peppercorns, cumin seed, celery seed, 2 anonymous dried chilis from the ristra, 1 tbsp. brown sugar, 1.5 tsp salt, 4 cloves

Jar 2 contains: 50/50 apple cider vinegar and water, peppercorns, cloves, anise seed, 2 anonymous dried chilis, 1 tbsp. brown sugar

Jaq (Jaq), Saturday, 25 February 2006 23:17 (eighteen years ago) link

Oh, they're great. They're quite rubbery, not like soft-boiled at all. Usually cut up like a meat. I've had them most commonly in congee, but also often as part of Cantonese cold dishes, often with pork. The ones available in Chinatown here are advertised "lead-free."

Wikipedia has a nice photo and some info.

Are you following proper pickling HACCP procedure? That page reminds me of the wonderful pickled sausages a long-closed bar here used to serve.

Paul Eater (eater), Sunday, 26 February 2006 04:57 (eighteen years ago) link

Nah, no HAACP - I'm keeping them in the fridge and expect to eat them in 2-4 weeks. If these work out, I'll properly pickle some more.

btw, 2 dozen eggs were picked up this morning, and I processed 4 dozen today (1 dozen hard-boiled for weekday lunches, 2 dozen pickled, and a dozen made into custard and eaten for breakfast). We had a 2 dozen egg-deficit! We are down to 7 dozen raw eggs in the fridge!

Jaq (Jaq), Sunday, 26 February 2006 05:44 (eighteen years ago) link

I just had a look at that Wiki - wow! I didn't expect them to be dark amber and green colored! Those are amazing. I wonder if Uwajimaya sells them? We won't be in Seattle for a few months, but when next we are, I'm hunting down some of these to try.

Jaq (Jaq), Monday, 27 February 2006 00:55 (eighteen years ago) link

(There's a Uwajimaya in Portland, too, you know. Well, in Beaverton, fair enough.)

Casuistry (Chris P), Monday, 27 February 2006 01:34 (eighteen years ago) link

eek those century eggs look scary!

Trayce (trayce), Monday, 27 February 2006 04:20 (eighteen years ago) link

i love century eggs! my favorite way to have them is with ginger and jellyfish, but they're also great in pastry.

lauren (laurenp), Monday, 27 February 2006 16:40 (eighteen years ago) link

Uwajimaya in Portland

I'd forgotten! My daughter is possibly going to be in Vancouver WA for spring break, so we may be over that way in a month.

Jaq (Jaq), Monday, 27 February 2006 16:45 (eighteen years ago) link

That is the most ridiculous place to go for spring break that I've ever heard of.

If you're in town on April 15, I will be taking part in another reading then. Actually a huge marathon reading, 80 poets in 8 hours in 8 venues. The hour/venue that I'll be in should be pretty nice.

Casuistry (Chris P), Monday, 27 February 2006 17:00 (eighteen years ago) link

Yeah, it made me laugh - but she is scoping NW schools for her PhD and looking for a place to work for a year to establish residency, has friends there, etc.

That weekend is a distinct possibility actually.

Jaq (Jaq), Monday, 27 February 2006 17:09 (eighteen years ago) link

three weeks pass...
So, I've had two batches of eggs pickling in my fridge for over a month, and my tasters are coming over around 6 pm on Saturday. I'm planning on cheese, sausage, some veggies, some homemade baguettes. Wine/beer/various hard liquor/mixers. What else would you put out of substantial snack-type fare? And what would you have for dessert? I've got all day Friday and most of Saturday to cook.

Jaq (Jaq), Thursday, 23 March 2006 20:20 (eighteen years ago) link

And C. - We're set for that weekend. Want some eggs? :)

Jaq (Jaq), Thursday, 23 March 2006 20:27 (eighteen years ago) link

various dips/chutneys/relishes/salsas

AaronK (AaronK), Thursday, 23 March 2006 20:45 (eighteen years ago) link

All good, Aaron, thanks. I'm also thinking some small, savory pies. My piecrust skills have improved. Maybe something like piroshki.

Jaq (Jaq), Thursday, 23 March 2006 22:09 (eighteen years ago) link

You just reminded me that I want to make century egg pies like these soon.

I think a nice light refreshing dessert would be in order after a meal of pickled eggs. Oeufs a la neige?

Paul Eater (eater), Friday, 24 March 2006 16:25 (eighteen years ago) link

One light dessert + one rich/heavy? For light, a big bowl of strawberries (the new CA crop is coming in right about now, isn't it?) and maybe a bowl of vanilla sugar for dipping. For heavy, maybe a cheesecake?

Have you tried the eggs yet, Jaq, or will you be taste-testing along with the guests?

pixel farmer (Rock Hardy), Friday, 24 March 2006 17:01 (eighteen years ago) link

I've not tried them yet - we'll all be tasting together. There may be a photo essay involved. I decided to make a cassoulet, so there will be substantial food in case the eggs are a failure.

There are 4 pints of various berry sorbets in the freezer from last year's crop, so that might be a good light dessert, maybe with some homemade shortbread.

Jaq (Jaq), Friday, 24 March 2006 17:28 (eighteen years ago) link

Marc Bittman suggests making scrambled eggs on ultra-low heat on your burner. The last time I tried it I think I didn't use a good enough skillet and wasn't attentive enough, so parts of it came out really dry.

Abbadavid Berman (Hurting), Sunday, 26 March 2006 14:53 (eighteen years ago) link

Use a double boiler!

Paul Eater (eater), Sunday, 26 March 2006 17:55 (eighteen years ago) link

So, both types of pickled eggs passed muster last night - one recipe was predominantly celery seed and the other more pepper/ginger/anise. Neither was particularly spicy or overly vinegary. I was worried because both batches were piebald, but my more experienced taster advised this was normal.

The cassoulet tasted great, but was more the texture of french refried beans than trad cassoulet. Everyone ate it without complaint, and there's a huge amount left over. We drank Snipes Mountain porter and Cline Red Truck (also gin and apparently some vodka too).

Jaq (Jaq), Sunday, 26 March 2006 18:25 (eighteen years ago) link

scrambled eggs are the best when done over minimal heat. it takes at least 20 minutes and involves constant stirring, but the results are extraordinary.

lauren (laurenp), Sunday, 26 March 2006 19:31 (eighteen years ago) link

I can't imagine scrambled eggs that are so good they're worth that much time. Maybe I'm not a true foodie.

pixel farmer (Rock Hardy), Sunday, 26 March 2006 20:03 (eighteen years ago) link

two years pass...

After reading through Elizabeth David's Summer Cooking, I had to try making Oeufs en Cocotte, which now that I think about it are pretty much the same as shirred eggs: Butter a small ovensafe dish, break in an egg, float a tablespoon or so of cream on top, sprinkle with some herbs (I used tarragon), cover and bake (in a bain marie) in a moderate oven until set (5 min for a small, single egg dish at 350 deg F). I didn't have any single egg cocottes (but Le Creuset makes some adorable ones - for $50 apiece!), so I used a 4 cup ramekin and broke 4 eggs in. It needed to bake for about 20 minutes. The eggs were really yummy - sort of like a soft-boiled or very gently poached, only with extra creamy tarragon goodness. They would have been terrific served over toast.

Oh those days of surplus eggs :)

Jaq, Wednesday, 4 June 2008 15:32 (fifteen years ago) link

three years pass...

Ha! So, now I have an induction burner that will hold a pan of water at a fairly steady 140 deg F and thought I remembered how to do the long cooked eggs. How could I have forgotten how long those things really took? I should have looked up this thread before I cooked 18 for a mere 90 minutes at 140 last night. I sort of ate 2 for lunch today - the yolks are bland but beautiful, super creamy. But the whites were barely opaque and really not set at all so peeling was a disaster.

Jaq, Monday, 25 July 2011 21:44 (twelve years ago) link

i was reading abt these in that new mcsweeneys food mag - wish i could try it!

just sayin, Tuesday, 26 July 2011 09:58 (twelve years ago) link

I left them at 140/180 for about 5 hours after I got home from work last night - will be trying 2 more for lunch today. They may not have the pretzel-y deliciousness, but I'm hoping at least the whites will be set.

Jaq, Tuesday, 26 July 2011 13:28 (twelve years ago) link


You must be logged in to post. Please either login here, or if you are not registered, you may register here.