craftsmanship, consumerism, virtue, privilege, and quality

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my favorite is when the crease on the back of the leg where the knee that's supposed to be the original color of the jeans actually falls on the wearer's calf or ankle because the wearer is significantly shorter than the model they based the wear pattern off of

:(

It means why you gotta be a montague? (Laurel), Wednesday, 16 November 2011 22:32 (twelve years ago) link

probably not the thread, but what do you think of waxed denim, elmo?

mh, Wednesday, 16 November 2011 22:34 (twelve years ago) link

shit, wk beat me to it

mh, Wednesday, 16 November 2011 22:34 (twelve years ago) link

I keep remembering how when I was younger I had a (black!) denim jacket to which my mom had sewn all the patches I had acquired at America's National Parks on our Big Trip Out West, and I keep wanting to find the jacket and buy a new denim jacket to reattach those patches to.

ooh i love my loaf n jug! (silby), Wednesday, 16 November 2011 22:34 (twelve years ago) link

oh man, my whole family had denim jackets when I was a kid. I think they were pretty light in color, hopefully not acid washy

I kind of want one now, but... a cool one. Which will probably look about as awesome in years

mh, Wednesday, 16 November 2011 22:36 (twelve years ago) link

i did not even know waxed denim was a thing!

i think this is serious (elmo argonaut), Wednesday, 16 November 2011 22:37 (twelve years ago) link

I think it's been kind of a side thing on designer labels, but the fringe is starting to maybe pick up self-waxing? idk

I bought some brown jeans that were whatever that downmarket varvatos label is on huge discount and they were 'waxed denim'

mh, Wednesday, 16 November 2011 22:38 (twelve years ago) link

requisite superfuture link: http://supertalk.superfuture.com/index.php?showtopic=14662

mh, Wednesday, 16 November 2011 22:39 (twelve years ago) link

noooo they're gonna invade us now

dayo, Wednesday, 16 November 2011 22:41 (twelve years ago) link

i did not even know waxed denim was a thing!

http://www.orvis.com/orvis_assets/prodimg/8978NWolive_lg.jpg

Do you know what the secret of comity is? (Michael White), Wednesday, 16 November 2011 22:42 (twelve years ago) link

tbh waxed denim makes sense to me for coats & other outerwear, not sure about how i feel about it being right next to the skin -- also there's probably a difference between commercially treated fabric used to make stuff vs applying beeswax to yr own jeans

xp haha yeah i knew barbour was gonna come up, like i said -- makes sense for outerwear!

i think this is serious (elmo argonaut), Wednesday, 16 November 2011 22:45 (twelve years ago) link

Waxed outerwear is still not as good as goretex and whatnot - it gets awfully steamy on the inside of that stuff.

Do you know what the secret of comity is? (Michael White), Wednesday, 16 November 2011 22:53 (twelve years ago) link

i got a barbour coat from those people i was talking about. i dig it. smelly though. maria and i have matching smelly oily coats.

scott seward, Wednesday, 16 November 2011 22:56 (twelve years ago) link

I guess what interests me on the commercial side of this is how these denim & leather goods are designed and marketed with special attention to how they age and how that relates to perceived quality / craftsmanship / authenticity

like how, for example, you could see how well a garment retains its color could arguably be an indicator of quality -- it stays "like new" longer -- but in some cases how color fading is preferred because, idk -- because it recalls less industrialized modes of production?

i think this is serious (elmo argonaut), Wednesday, 16 November 2011 23:04 (twelve years ago) link

would steal:

http://www.orvis.com/orvis_assets/prodimg/4X18F1FH_lg.jpg

scott seward, Wednesday, 16 November 2011 23:06 (twelve years ago) link

always been a sucker for old-tyme rich people clothes. i can't deny it. that i buy cheap in thrift stores. man, marthas vineyard was a goldmine. got my nantucket reds, yellows, and greens there. 3 bucks apiece.

scott seward, Wednesday, 16 November 2011 23:08 (twelve years ago) link

I had to google that but I'm still going to pretend that you were talking about pills

the wheelie king (wk), Wednesday, 16 November 2011 23:14 (twelve years ago) link

nantucket reds are another good example on the other end of the class spectrum, because they are supposed to fade too -- also "bleeding madras".

nostalgia for "how things used to be made" etc

i think this is serious (elmo argonaut), Wednesday, 16 November 2011 23:16 (twelve years ago) link

max is onto something when he mentions that it's also nostalgia for a time when people did manual labor

dayo, Wednesday, 16 November 2011 23:28 (twelve years ago) link

i guess it's unfortunate that my first exposures to Carhartt as a brand was when all the dipshit neighborhood teenagers would show up for summer/temp jobs with our construction company in head-to-toe brand new Carhartt and then squeal like babies and shy away the moment real, actual work was expected of them.. meanwhile me and the hispanics are wearing the shit out of cheap pre-distressed Arizona crap. Then i bought a pair of Carhartt boots and the soles split after a year.

But then again all my bros in Oregon wear that shit religiously.. like this pic i took last Feb in the mojave with them:
http://i44.tinypic.com/15oh2bt.jpg

pretty sure every stitch of clothing in that photo is carhartt.. well patinaed.

Of course, there's a huge, huge difference in wearing the hell out of work clothes/boots out west where it's dry as hell and here in the sweaty, sweaty south.

Kerm, Wednesday, 16 November 2011 23:40 (twelve years ago) link

Carhartt shirts are cut weird, even for 'American-sized' work clothes. Giant balloony sleeves and super-long bodies.

Hmm, I should check those out. I'm proportioned like a 5'10" dwarf, I guess -- long torso and short legs.

Steamtable Willie (WmC), Thursday, 17 November 2011 01:23 (twelve years ago) link

maria is 5' 3" and i'm 6' and we wear the same size pants. which is weird.

scott seward, Thursday, 17 November 2011 01:40 (twelve years ago) link

Haha I'm the same height as Maria and I dated someone once who was at least 6' tall but woke up one morning and pulled my skinny jeans on by accident, and they fit. So it's not that hard to believe.

It means why you gotta be a montague? (Laurel), Thursday, 17 November 2011 01:41 (twelve years ago) link

it's less smh if you pretend like it's just poorly translated japanese

iatee, Thursday, 17 November 2011 05:42 (twelve years ago) link

trying to figure out which arrow on the flowchart is "I buy a shirt"

ooh i love my loaf n jug! (silby), Thursday, 17 November 2011 05:45 (twelve years ago) link

apparently "enlightenment and solving social problems" is part of the flowchart, they are promising a hell of a lot of karma for buying this shirt

ooh i love my loaf n jug! (silby), Thursday, 17 November 2011 05:45 (twelve years ago) link

tbh i'm not sure that uniqlo thing quite fits into the scope of the thread -- it's certainly not abt craftsmanship or quality afaict. but definitely part of a trend, consumer goods companies with charitable missions, q.v. toms, warby parker, etc

i think this is serious (elmo argonaut), Thursday, 17 November 2011 14:43 (twelve years ago) link

I think my hatred of those toms shoes is wearing off.

mh, Thursday, 17 November 2011 16:02 (twelve years ago) link

good karma for sale! git yer red hot good karma right hyere! step right up! it won't last long at this price!

Aimless, Thursday, 17 November 2011 17:56 (twelve years ago) link

denim has always owned fuiud

unlistenable in philly (underrated aerosmith bootlegs I have owned), Thursday, 17 November 2011 18:56 (twelve years ago) link

what does aerosmith think about wearing denim jackets with denim pants

mh, Thursday, 17 November 2011 18:57 (twelve years ago) link

Canadian tuxedo

bouquet beatdown (Nicole), Thursday, 17 November 2011 19:00 (twelve years ago) link

I think my hatred of those toms shoes is wearing off.

― mh, Thursday, November 17, 2011 4:02 PM (2 hours ago) Bookmark

Nnnnoooooo stay strong, comrade!!!

It means why you gotta be a montague? (Laurel), Thursday, 17 November 2011 19:01 (twelve years ago) link

what does aerosmith think about wearing denim jackets with denim pants

Tennessee tuxedo iirc

It means why you gotta be a montague? (Laurel), Thursday, 17 November 2011 19:01 (twelve years ago) link

also Texas Tuxedo

Kiarostami bag (milo z), Thursday, 17 November 2011 20:17 (twelve years ago) link

Tulsa tuxedo?

Aimless, Friday, 18 November 2011 01:39 (twelve years ago) link

The owner of SelfEdge in his denim wedding suit:
http://www.flickr.com/photos/ayn/1451831750/in/photostream/

Kiarostami bag (milo z), Friday, 18 November 2011 02:39 (twelve years ago) link

I absolutely love the deflated, arms held at side posture that all sufu/styleforum people pose in

dayo, Friday, 18 November 2011 02:42 (twelve years ago) link

He actually wore it for the next 14 months until the right wear patterns set in

mh, Friday, 18 November 2011 02:54 (twelve years ago) link

ha

Kerm, Friday, 18 November 2011 02:54 (twelve years ago) link

too bad it doesn't fit him properly. I hope he soaked that shit in the bathtub before the wedding

the wheelie king (wk), Friday, 18 November 2011 04:00 (twelve years ago) link

lol

i think this is serious (elmo argonaut), Friday, 18 November 2011 12:46 (twelve years ago) link

btw i have been wondering this for a while but can someone explain what the big deal about selvage denim? doesn't all loomed woven fabric technically have a selvage? i understand that the selvage is generally more durable than a cut edge, it won't unravel, ok sure. i am not trying to be dumb about this, i just have never really seen an explanation that i found reasonable satisfying.

i think this is serious (elmo argonaut), Friday, 18 November 2011 18:07 (twelve years ago) link

idgi either but as far as I can tell it just signifies authenticity since that's the way it was traditionally done. and you have to roll up your cuffs to show it off.

the wheelie king (wk), Friday, 18 November 2011 18:45 (twelve years ago) link

right! and, well, using the selvage as part of the pattern lines means that you need to use more yardage than you would if you laid the pattern out by area & grain alone, yes? i realize i'm making an assumption here about the weaving & manufacturing processes but it seems like the value of selvage partly has to do with only using the *best* part of the denim -- i don't know if that also implies more waste or what, but definitely lends itself to higher materials cost.

i think this is serious (elmo argonaut), Friday, 18 November 2011 19:13 (twelve years ago) link

it's kind of like how chinese scholars would grow their fingernails long to show they didn't have to do manual labor

dayo, Friday, 18 November 2011 19:18 (twelve years ago) link

It started out as a heritage thing in Japanese denim, and since that denim was made to a higher standard than industrial denim it became a signifier of quality. Then it blew up and you could get selvage at Old Navy (etc.) which was no better than non-selvage.

Kiarostami bag (milo z), Friday, 18 November 2011 19:18 (twelve years ago) link

oh and i just want to say, too -- that selvage denim suit looks so so awful

i think this is serious (elmo argonaut), Friday, 18 November 2011 19:22 (twelve years ago) link


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